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Companion planting means putting together plants that can help each other in some way; they can provide nutrients, attract beneficial insects, discourage pests, or offer support or shade. One of the classic combinations is the grouping of squash, corn and beans, called the “Three Sisters.” The tall cornstalks provide support for the beans, which shade the young ears of corn and repel squash vine borers. The squash below shades out weeds and keeps the corn roots cool. This is a win-win-win!
Another favorite combination is marigolds and tomatoes. The tomatoes look so pretty surrounded by bright gold and orange pom-poms. Beneath the surface, the marigold roots put out a substance that is poisonous to nematodes that attack tomato roots. On the other hand, marigolds sometimes attract white flies which damage tomato plants. Culinary herbs are aromatic to us, but their strong scent can confuse destructive insects that find their food by smell. Planting herbs like rosemary, basil, and mint among the flowers or vegetables will discourage pests.
A tall plant can offer shade to lower-growing plants. For instance, if you plant your delicate lettuces under the tomatoes, they will find the shade they need. This can also apply to flowers. If you don’t have a shady enough spot in your garden, plant your shade-loving plants under a taller companion. Following cheat sheets show other effective companion planting combinations.
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There was a time when any sign of chewed or spotty leaf was met with a blast of pesticide or a cloud of powdered fungicide. In these more environmentally aware times, the approach of choice is Integrated Pest Management (IPM).
IPM looks to provide the best growing environment for a plant and then apply the least damaging cure for problems. While this was initially developed for agricultural use, it can be adapted to the home garden. Below is a list of simple steps to consider in planning your garden. After that, there is a protocol for steps to take to solve a problem.
1) Biological controls (beneficial insects). There are good bugs and bad bugs. The useful ones are called beneficial insects, or beneficials. The beneficials include cheerful ladybugs, which eat aphids and are often available live in garden stores. Lacewings are lovely insects that eat aphids, insect eggs, mealy bugs, and scale. Spiders eat aphids, flies, leafhoppers, and mosquitoes—so leave that web in peace! While they don’t eat insects, honeybees pollinate plants and are essential if you grow vegetables. Because there are so many good insects, it is important not to spray pesticide willy-nilly, taking out the good with the bad.
2) Crop rotation. While this sounds like something best left to farmers, some garden favorites, like tomatoes, should not be grown in the same soil year after year. It is best to switch out your vegetables and grow them in different containers, or at least in different soil.
3) Choose your varieties carefully. Plants and seeds are usually marked “disease resistant” if they are a particularly hardy variety. You can’t always do this, but if you have a choice, pick the plant that is disease resistant.
4) When you have a diseased plant, remove and destroy any infected part of the plant (or all of it) so that the infection will not be transmitted to another plant.
5) Choose plants that will thrive in their site. Plants flourish in particular environments. Trying to grow plants in the wrong place (shade loving plants in the sun, for instance, or dry climate plants in the middle of a rain forest) will weaken them and make them more vulnerable to disease or predation.
6) Pay attention. Watch your garden and take note of what seems to work…and do more of that!
If, despite your best planning efforts, you have a problem in your garden, then IPM suggest you take these steps in this order to solve it:
a) Cultural action – remove a plant or part of a plant. Put a different one in that spot.
b) Mechanical action – remove pests by hand.
c) Biological action – release beneficial insects.
d) Chemical action – As a last resort, use the least environmentally damaging herbicide, insecticide, or fungicide.
This may sound complicated, but it comes down to common sense. Choose the right plant, put it in the right spot, and give it what it needs to thrive.
Most Common Garden Pests
Below is a list of 20 most common garden pests:
Outdoor Pest Control:
Pests Controlled
Active ingredient
Mode of Action
Formulation
Features/Uses
OUTDOOR INSECTS
permethrin
contact
liquid spray
Synthetic pyrethroid for tree and garden
OUTDOOR ANTS
carbaryl
contact
granules
Lawn/garden ant control
MOSQUITO LARVAE
Bacillus thuringensis israelensis
stomach poison
pellets
Biological insecticide for standing water outdoors
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Containers provide controlled and healthy environments for plants and are far less problem prone than conventional gardens. Sometimes however, some of the same problems affecting conventional gardens take their toll on container gardens as well. Some of the common signs of plant problems include wilting foliage (particularly if the plant is regularly watered), discoloration of leaves, dead or dying leaves or growing tips, mis-shapen leaves, poor growth habits and failure to flower or set fruit.
Sometimes these symptoms are caused by basic gardening mistakes, like using the wrong kind of fertilizer, or having too much water or not enough light. These types of problems are easy to fix with a container garden because you can change its location and have more control over the amount of water or fertilizer that the plants receive. Because fertilizers provide well-rounded nutrient profiles, well-tended container gardens rarely suffer from nutrient deficiencies.
Other problems, involving pests and diseases, need more intervention. Read the section on Integrated Pest Management to understand a modern, environmentally sustainable approach to dealing with these issues.
Reproduced below is a useful chart of common problems and their solutions adapted from the Cornell University Container Gardening Guide:
Problems, Causes and Solutions:
Problems
Causes
Solutions
Plants wilt despite obtaining enough water
Insufficient drainage and aeration
Use lighter soil mix, increase number of drainage holes, use mix with higher percent of organic matter
Leaf edges die or “burn” turning dry and brittle
High salt content
At regular intervals, leach container by watering until water drains from drainage holes
Plants “leggy”, spindly and unproductive
Not enough light Too much nitrogen
Relocate plants to area receiving more light Apply fertilizer less often and allow water to drain through drainage holes
Plants yellowing from bottom, lack vigor, poor color
Too much water Not fertile enough
Water less frequently and check for good drainage Use fertilizer with higher level of nutrients
Plant leaves with spots or powdery, rusty or dead dried areas
Grown at temperature that is too low Low phosphate level
Move container to a warmer area Use fertilizer with higher concentration of phosphate
Leaves with small holes or that are distorted in shape
Insect damage
Use insecticide suited to the insect causing the damage
Plant leaves with spots, dead dried areas, or powdery or rusty areas
Plant diseases
Remove diseased portion of plant and use fungi cide. If problem is severe, discard entire plant and replace soil
Plants stunted in growth; sickly, purplish color.
Low temperature Low phosphate
Relocate container to warmer area. Increase phosphate level in base solution.
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Just when you thought the show was over, the fall flowering bulbs start to bloom. Sometimes they will grow early with just leaves, then the flower appears in the fall. Fall brings the colchicum (also called autumn crocus), Holland iris, and cyclamen.
Flowering in Fall:
Variety
Colour
Bloom size
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Features
COLCHICUM
Pink, apricot, peach, rose, salmon
4”-5”
14”- 18”
Concave side up just below the surface 6”-12” apart
In this genus the ovary of the flower is underground.
HOLLANT IRIS
Purple, violet, white, white/ pink,
3”-4”
na
Concave side up just below the surface 6”-12” apart
Bright non-fading colors Plant in partial to full shade.
CYCLAMEN
Pink, voilet, purple, light blue, white floweryellow/red, apricot
3.5”
na
Concave side up just below the surface 6”-12” apart
Grow from tubers and are valued for their flowers with upswept petals and variably patterned leaves.
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Summer brings the glory of the dahlias that vary in size from miniature to dinner plate. Gladioli and lilies bloom at this time, as do the tuberous begonias. The begonias need a shady spot. Other popular summer bloomers are cannas, colocasia (elephant ear), nerine, and ranunculus.
Begonias:
Variety
Colour
Bloom size
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Features
ROSE FORM
Pink, scarlet, white, yellow, apricot, peach, rose, salmon Picottee: Yellow with red edge, white & pink, white & bright red
4”-5”
14”- 18”
Concave side up just below the surface 6”-12” apart
Double flowers similar in shape to camelia or rose blossoms.
Concave side up just below the surface 6”-12” apart
Unusual fringed flower petals. Large, even blooms.
Rose Form
Hanging Basket
Non Stop
Camelia
Crispa
Ruffled Camelia
Yellow Begonias
Orange Begonias
Dahlias:
Decorative Dahlias: Good Garden Display; Excellent Cut Flowers.
Variety
Colour
Bloom size
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Features
Arabian Night
Deep burgundy
5”
40”
3” deep/12” apart
Popular deep color; rounded petals.
Duet
Red with white tips
5”
40”
3” deep/12” apart
Excellent color
Mystery Day
Deep burgundy with white tips
5”
40”
3” deep/12” apart
Elegant, slightly pointed petals. Nicely formed flower heads.
Blue Bell
Purple blue
5”
40”
3” deep/12” apart
Best dahlia!
Bonesta
White with rose veins
5”
40”
3” deep/12” apart
Stunning presentation
Dinnerplate: The following is only a sample of our many varieties
Variety
Colour
Bloom size
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Features
Babylon Purple
Medium purple
up to 10”
40”
3” deep/12” apart
Large, well-formed blooms.
Big Wow
Wine red
up to 10”
40”
3” deep/12” apart
Clear green leaves; pointed petals.
Fleur
Pure white
up to 10”
40”
3” deep/12” apart
White
Grand Prix
Yellow with white tips.
up to 10”
40”
3” deep/12” apart
Incurved petals give interesting texture.
Café au Lait
Creamy mocha
up to 10”
40”
3” deep/12” apart
Beautiful in fall arrangements.
Gallery: A shorter variety excellent for pot, container and garden.
Variety
Colour
Bloom size
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Features
Art Fair
white; greenish yellow center
3”
12”
3” deep/12” apart
Excellent for fall pot displays.
Cezanne
Yellow
3”
12”
3” deep/12” apart
Clear, vibrant yellow.
Singer
Deep red
3”
12”
3” deep/12” apart
Good flower form.
Giant Ball: Rounded, Multi-Headed Flowers.
Variety
Colour
Bloom Size
Height
Planting Depth/Spacing
Features
Babette
Lavender pink
5”-6”
12”
3” deep/12” apart
Deep color.
Belinda Pink
Soft rose pink
5”-6”
12”
3” deep/12” apart
Charming in summer arrangements.
Evelyn
White with lavender tips.
5”-6”
12”
3” deep/12” apart
Bloom in abundance over a long period.
Marble Ball
white with purple streaks
5”-6”
12”
3” deep/12” apart
Pristine.
Arabian Night
Blue Bell
Mystery Day
Grand Prix
Café au Lait
Art Fair
Evelyn
Marble Ball
Cactus: Long narrow petals give a starburst cactus-like appearance.
Variety
Colour
Bloom size
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Features
Black Cat
Dark Maroon
5”-6”
20”- 50”
3” deep/12” apart
Excellent garden or border plant.
Fire Bird
Fiery red; gold center
5”-6”
20”- 50”
3” deep/12” apart
Tall, striking plant.
Mixed Peppermint
White with rose streaks
5”-6”
20”- 50”
3” deep/12” apart
Extra large flower heads up to 8”.
Red Pygmy
Blood Red
5”-6”
20”- 50”
3” deep/12” apart
Border type at around 1.5 feet tall.
Powder Puff: A new class of Dahlias with soft, multi-petalled rounded center.
Variety
Colour
Bloom size
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Features
Blue Bayou
Double purple
6”-10”
24”- 36”
3” deep/12” apart
Interesting color
Lambada
Soft rose petals, creamy white center
6”-10”
24”- 36”
3” deep/12” apart
Similar appearance to Scabiosa
River Dance
Red flowers
6”-10”
24”- 36”
3” deep/12” apart
Exclusive to independent garden centers.
Waterlily: Similar in appearance to waterlily flowers.
Variety
Colour
Bloom size
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Features
Le Castel
White
4”-5”
40”- 45”
3” deep/12” apart
Traditional color
Sam Hughes
Dark maroon
4”-5”
40”- 45”
3” deep/12” apart
Beautiful when paired with yellow.
Sympathy
Buttercup yellow
4”-5”
40”- 45”
3” deep/12” apart
Blends with summer color palettes
Impression: Single bloom with a contrasting ruff.
Variety
Colour
Bloom size
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Features
Famoso
Sunny yellow
3”
24”
3” deep/12” apart
Solid, strong yellow
Fantastico
Cherry red with white ruff
3”
24”
3” deep/12” apart
Red and white compliment each other
Festivo
Scarlet with gold
3”
24”
3” deep/12” apart
Nice impact
Border: Shorter plants that grow without staking.
Variety
Colour
Bloom size
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Features
Bluesette
Purple and pink
4”-5”
24”
3” deep/12” apart
Unusual color combination
Extase
Salmon and gold
4”-5”
24”
3” deep/12” apart
Pink and yellow compliment each other
Le Castel
Famoso
Festivo
Bluesette
Gladioli:
Variety
Height
Planting
Depth/ Spacing
Features
ORCHID
up to 24”
6”/6”
Smaller delicate blossoms; best planted in clumps.
Types available: Charm, Prins Klaus, Charming Beauty, and Elvira in shades from white to deep pink.
LANDSCAPE
36”-42”
6”/6”
Need no staking; perfect for small-scale gardens.
Types available: Coral Seas (soft coral); Award (pink); Florida (yellow with red blotch); High Seas (lavender)
Land O’ Lakes (magenta with white stripes); Norseman (brilliant red); Sunbold (golden yellow); White Wings (white)
POPULAR
VARIETIES
48”-60”
6”/6”
Excellent cut flowers with large blossoms.
Types available: Glowing Orange; Golden Yellow; Snow White; Vibrant Red; Deep Red; Light Yellow; Peach Parfait; Rosy Pink;
Lavender & White; Pink & Red; White & Red; Yellow & Red
DUTCH HYBRIDS
48”
6”/6”
Extra-large corms; unique colors.
Types available: Flevo Eyes (white with raspberry blotch); Don Juan (raspberry red with white throat);
Flevo Safari (Crimson with white brushmark); many more varieties available.
CALIFORNIA NOVELTY GLADS
48”
6”/6”
Large flowers in unusual colors.
Types available: Airborne (rich royal purple); Cloud Nine (begonia pink); Great Lakes (light blue); Mr. Lincoln (rich dark red);
Green with Envy (green); Popcorn (pale yellow with cream edge).
Orchid
Landscape
Non Stop
Camelia
California Novelty Glads
Red Camelia
White Begonias
Pink Begonias
Lillies:
Variety
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Features
ASIATIC
36”-48”
6”-10”/12”
Reliably hardy; earliest of the lilies to come into bloom.
Types available: Pair of Giraffes ( orange with red spots); Chianti (vintage pink); La Toya (magenta purple);
Marseilles (pretty pink & white); many more varieties available!
ASIATIC PIXIE
12”
6”-10”/12”
Can be used as an annual when planted in pots
Great in perennial garden.
Large, beautifully fragrant flowers; full sun to part shade.
Favorite of florists; usually the last to bloom.
Types available: Arena (Huge white flowers with yellow markings); Cascablanca (white); Tom Pounce (pink petals with white)
Starfighter (wine red edged in white with burgundy spotting); Stargazer ( bright red to pink with white margins)
FAIRDALE HYBRID
DWARF ORIENTAL
LILIES
18”
6”-10”/12”
Good for pot culture; very fragrant
Types available: Gold Nymph: (white petals with yellow stripes and spots); Pink Nymph (pink with dark pink spots);
Red Nymph: (pink petals with white edges an dark pink stripes); Silver Nymph (bright silvery white)
TRUMPET
36”-48”
6”-10”/12”
Large trumpet shaped fragrant flowers. Tolerates partial
shade.
Regal’ does well in Calgary area.
Types available Golden Splendour (yellow); Pink Perfection (pink); African Queen (yellow with garnet brown markings);Regal (white with
maroon)
L.A. HYBRIDS
40”
6”-10”/12”
Combine the best features of asiatics with longiflorums
Large waxy flowers; subtle fragrance.
Types available: Fangio (dark pink); Rodeo (clear pink with fuschia tips); Royal Perfume (deep fiery red)
TIGER
36”
6”-10”/12”
Garden favorites since Victorian times; very easy to
grow.
Broad, slightly recurved petals dotted with black spots.
Types available: Tigrinium Splendens (gleaming salmon orange); Tigrinium Rose (rich pink with black dots);
Yellow Star (buttery yellow with black dots); Sweet Surrender (white flowers with maroon dots)
OTHER:
Lilium Citronella
36”-48”
6”-10”/12”
Lemon yellow with dark brown spots
Lilium Rubrum
36”-48”
6”-10”/12”
White and pink
Lilium Tenufolium
36”-48”
6”-10”/12”
Red and orange
Asiatic
Asiatic Pixie
Oriental
Trumpet
Other:
Variety
Colour
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Features
ACIDANTHERA BICOLOR MURILAE
White with purple blotch at throat.
3” deep/ 6” apart
Similar to gladioli, having sword-shaped leaves and flower spikes. Originally from high mountain regions of East Africa.
ANEMONE
White, lavender, blue pink, or purple
3” deep/ 6” apart
Soak tubers overnight then plant in partially shaded moist area. Many varieties
BABIANA
Violet, blue, and red
2” deep/ 2” apart
Flowers similar to freesias; leaves and stems are hairy. Common name is ‘Baboon Root’.
BLETILLA STRIATA
White, blue, pink, amethyst red, purple
1” deep/ 4” apart
Terrestrial orchid; grow outside in hanging baskets in sum mer. Originally from Asia; common name is ‘Chinese Ground Orchid’
BRODIAEA SPECIES
Lavender
4” apart
Funnel-shaped flowers and narrow leaves; needs full sun. Flowers after the leaves die down.
CALADIUM
No flowers but brilliant leaf color
2” deep/ 4” apart
Leaf colors in shades of green, white, red, and pink with obvious veins. Leaves hate wind – plant in a partially shaded, moist,sheltered area.
CALLA LILY (ZANTEDESCHIA SPECIES)
White, pink, yellow, rust, various colors
4” deep/ 16” apart
Flower bract surrounds central spike covering small, true flowers. Requires full sun, heavy watering, acid soil, and good drainage.
CANNA
Orange, red, pink, or yellow
3” deep/ 18”-36” apart
Large, dramatic feature at the back of a perennial bed. Canna will bloom longer if dead flowers are removed.
CHILDANTHUS FRAGRANS
Yellow
1” deep/ 4” apart
Fragrant, lily-like flowers in a cluster at the top of a stem. Prefers full sun; long-lasting as a cut flower.
COLOCASIA (ELEPHANT EARS)
NA
2”-3” deep/ 3’ apart
Grown as an ornamental for its large leaves. Plant in partial shade in moist or wet soil near ponds.
CROCOSMIA CROCOSMIFLORA
Deep orange
2” deep/ 4” apart
Flowers on long branched stems with sword-shaped leaves. Flower spikes make attractive, long-lasting cut flowers.
Anemone
Babiana
Bordiaea Striata
Caladium
Canna
Childanthus Fragrans
Colocasia
Acidanthera Bicolor Murilae
Other:
Variety
Colour
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Features
EUCOMIS SPECIES
Greenish-white
barely covered/ 6” apart
Common name is ‘Pineapple Lily’; 2’ high flower spike with small star-shaped flowers topped with bracts resembling a pineapple.
GALTONIA CANDICANS
White
6” deep/ 8” apart
Tall spike with fragrant, bell-shaped flowers. Likes warm spots in the garden; common name: ‘Summer Hyacinth’
GLORIOSA ROTHSCHILDIANA
Red & yellow
2” deep/ one per 6” pot
Tuberous, climbing plant with tendrils on leaves for support. Prefers cool roots and moist soil. Climbs up to 6 feet tall.
HOMERIA COLLINA
Yellow or peach
3” deep/ 4” apart
2”, cup-shaped, fragrant flowers last only a day but stems have many buds opening in succession needing full sun.
HYMENOCALLIS
Creamy white
barely covered/ 8” apart
Fragrant, spider-like flowers hence the common name ‘Spider Lily’. Best suited to a sunny spot – one plant per 5” pot.
IXIA HYBRIDA
Pink, yellow, red, orange, cream, white
3” deep/ 2-3” apart
Long-lasting flowers make excellent cut flowers. Needs full sun; also known as ‘African Corn Lily’.
NERINE
Pink
Barely covered/ 8” apart
Funnel-shaped flowers with six spreading segments at tips. Needs full sun and ample water.
POLIANTHES TUBEROS
White
barely covered/ 5”
Waxy tubular flowers have a powerful fragrance. Single and double forms available; full sun & good drainage.
RANUNCULUS ASIATICUS
White, red, pink, gold, range,bronze,picotte
1”-2” deep/ 3” apart
Requires full sun, and good drainage; several blooms on each stem. Soak corms for an hour before planting.
SPARAXIS TRICOLOR
Yellow, pink, purple,red, or white
2” deep/ 2”-3” apart
Small funnel-shaped flowers in spike-like clusters. Full sun, good drainage, keep on the dry side.
SPREKELIA FORMOSISSIMA
Crimson
2” deep/ 2”-3” apart
Spectacular 5” flowers resemble a waxy orchid. Full sun, ample water, and good drainage required.
TIGRIDIA PAVONIA
Orange, yellow, rose, crimson, scarlet
barely covered/ 6” apart
Most large cup-shaped flowers are bi-coloured with spots. Leaves form a pleated fan; full sun & good drainage required.
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*Please note, when you buy products through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. This helps to keep the website free for our readers. Thanks for your support!
Popular bulbs that flower in the spring include crocus, daffodils, narcissus, jonquils, and tulips. Other commonly available bulbs include the tall allium and the tiny grape hyacinth. Sometimes harder to find, but also good for spring blooms, are the frittillaria, glory of the snow, dwarf iris, snowdrops, star of Bethlehem, and winter aconite.
Crocus:
Variety
Colour
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Bloom Time
Features
DUTCH HYBRID: VERY LARGE, SHOWY FLOWERS
Flower Record
strong purple
4”-6”
3” deep/ 2”-6” apart
early spring
large, showy flowers
Golden Yellow
rich, buttercup yellow
4”-6”
3” deep/ 2”-6” apart
early spring
Heirloom since 1600; fragrant
Jeanne d’Arc
pure white
4”-6”
3” deep/ 2”-6” apart
early spring
Heirloom: 1925
Pickwick
greyish white with lilac stripes
4”-6”
3” deep/ 2”-6” apart
early spring
Heirloom: 1940
SPECIES: HARDIEST CROCUS; PRODUCE SMALL FLOWERS VERY EARLY IN THE SPRING
Advance
soft yellow inside, violet outside
4”
3” deep/ 2”-6” apart
early spring
Orange Stamens
Ruby Giant
Reddish Purple
4”
3” deep/ 2”-6” apart
early spring
Somewhat squirrel resistant
Tricolor
orange, white, lilac
4”
3” deep/ 2”-6” apart
early spring
Bronze/burgundy stamens
Flower Record
Golden Yellow
Jeanne d’Arc
Pickwick
Alatavicus
Ruby Giant
Tricolor
Assorted Crocus
Daffodils:
Variety
Colour
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Bloom Time
Features
ROCK GARDEN
Canaliculatus
white & yellow
4”
6” deep/ 3”-6” apart
late spring
A true miniature
Jenny
ivory matures to white
12”
6” deep/ 3”-6” apart
early spring
Reflexed petals
Peeping Tom
pure yellow
12”
6” deep/ 3”-6” apart
early spring
Long trumpet with back curving
petals
Tete-a-tete
yellow with golden cup
8”
6” deep/ 3”-6” apart
early spring
Long lasting; good for forcing
Thalia
white
12”
6” deep/ 3”-6” apart
mid spring
Three blossoms per stem
LARGE CUPPED
Accent
white petals with salmon cup
16”
6” deep/ 3”-6” apart
early spring
Unusual color!
Carlton
all yellow
18”
6” deep/ 3”-6” apart
early spring
Vanilla scent
Kissproof
creamy yellow with large, flat
brick red cup
20”
6” deep/ 3”-6” apart
early spring
Unusual color!
TRUMPET
King Alfred
bright yellow
18”
6”-8” deep/ 4”-6”
apart
mid spring
Excellent in cooler climates
Mount Hood
creamy white
15”
6”-8” deep/ 4”-6”
apart
mid spring
Local favorite
BUNCH-FLOWERING
Geranium
white & orange
15”-17”
6”-8” deep/ 4”-6”
apart
mid spring
3-5 flowers per stem; heirloom
1930
Yellow Cheerfulness
yellow
16”
6”-8” deep/ 4”-6”
apart
late spring
Double flowers
DOUBLE-FLOWERING
Flower Drift
white with yellow-orange cup
16”
6”-8” deep/ 4”-6”
apart
early spring
Beautiful, large daffodil
Ice King
white
16”
6”-8” deep/ 4”-6”
apart
early spring
Very vigorous
Rosy Cloud
white petals with pink cup
18”
6”-8” deep/ 4”-6”
apart
mid spring
Cup is double
SMALL CUPPED
Actea
pure white; small yellow cup has
red band
18”
6”-8” deep/ 4”-6”
apart
mid spring
Heirloom 1927
Barret Browning
white with orange-red c
16”
6”-8” deep/ 4”-6”
apart
mid spring
One pretty and small flower on
a tall stem. flower on a tall stem.
Canaliculatus
Accent
Flower Drift
Ice king
Tulips:
Variety
Colour
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Bloom Time
Features
BOUQUET
Gypsy Love
Raspberry violet
18-20”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
late spring
Great cut flower
Toronto
salmon rose
14”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
mid spring
Multi-flowering
DARWIN HYBRIDS: EXCELLENT PERENNIALIZING TULIP; ONE OF THE BEST IN CALGARY.
American Dream
yellow with red edging
24”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
mid spring
Very showy!
Daydream
apricot orange
22”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
mid spring
Unusual color
Golden Oxford
golden yellow with yellow center
22”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
mid spring
Sometimes will have edge or
blush. a red
Pink Impression
deep pink with black center
24”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
mid spring
Favorite pink.
Parade
bright red with yellow base & yellow edged black center
22”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
mid spring
Biggest red tulip.
Silver Stream
creamy yellow; streaked red &
pink
20”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
mid spring
Leaves edged with pink and
yellow.
DOUBLE EARLY
Abba
deep red
10”-16”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
early spring
Excellent in cooler climates
Monte Beau
lemon yellow with a broad white
edging
10”-12”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
early spring
Local favorite
Peach Blossom
deep rose
10”-16”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
early spring
DOUBLE LATE
Angelique
soft shades of pink
14”-16”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
late spring
Fragrant.
Blue Spectacle
reddish purple
14”-16”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
late spring
Interesting variety
Lilac Perfection
lilac purple
16”-18”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
late spring
A favorite!
Uncle Tom
dark mahogany red
18”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
late spring
Beautiful, deep color.
Day Dream
Pink Impression
Silver Stream
Abba
Advance
Uncle Tom
Angelique
Abba
Variety
Colour
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Bloom Time
Features
FOSTERIANNA/EMPEROR
Easter Parade
rose/yellow
16”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
early spring
Just in time for Easter
Flaming
Purissima
pastel white with rose feathering
18”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
mid spring
Streaked blooms.
Red Emperor
lipstick red with black center
14”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
early spring
Other ‘Emperor” colors are yellow,
orange, and white.
FRINGED
FRINGED
lavender, wine, red, yellow
20”-26”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
mid to late
spring
Feathery, fringed petal edges
GREIGII
GREIGII
red, pink, red with white stripe
8”-12”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
early spring
Very reliable; interesting mottled
leaves.
KAUFMANNIANA
KAUFMANNIANA
red, lemon, salmon pink, salmon
variegated
6”-8”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
early spring
Striped, mottled leaves.
LILY-FLOWERING: MORE AVAILABLE!
Mariette
deep rose
22”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
late spring
Great in south facing gardens!
Marilyn
peppermint
24”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
late spring
Try with blue tulips for impact
West Point
golden yellow
20”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
late spring
Named after West Point Academy
White Triumphator
opens ivory yellow and turns white
24”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
late spring
Lovely pure white
Red Emperor
Fringed
Greigii
Kaufmannina
Mariette
Flaming Purissima
West Point
White Triumphator
Variety
Colour
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Bloom Time
Features
PARROT
Blue Parrot
lavender blue with violet hints
22”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
mid spring
Sport of ‘Blue Amiable’
Estella Rynveldt
deep red with ivory flames
20”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
mid spring
Very good cut flower.
Fantasy
bright pink with green streaks
and white flames
22”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
mid spring
Very strong fringed edges.
SINGLE EARLY
Apricot Beauty
shades of apricot tinged pink
18”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
early spring
Strong stems, fragrant
Christmas
Dream
fushia pink with large white base
14”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
early spring
Good for forcing
Christmas
Marvel
cherry pink
14”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
early spring
Good for forcing.
SPECIES
T. clusiana
red & white peppermint
12”
4” deep/ 4” apart
mid spring
Multiply and naturalize well.
T. saxatilis
lavender pink with yellow center
10”
4” deep/ 4” apart
mid spring
Small, delicate center.
T. tarda
yellow edged in white
6”
4” deep/ 4” apart
mid spring
Star-shaped flowers!
Blue Parrot
Fantasy
Apricot Beauty
T. Saxatilis
Attila
Blueberry Ripple
Princess Irene
Sweet Love
Variety
Colour
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Bloom Time
Features
TRIUMPH
Attila
reddish violet
20”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
late spring
Great with pansies.
Blueberry Ripple
white with purple flames
18”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
early spring
Exclusive to independent garden
centers.
Calgary
snow white
8”-10”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
early spring
White as spring snow.
Francoise
creamy white with ivory yellow flames
24”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
mid spring
Large, long-lasting blossoms.
Negrita
reddish purple
18”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
mid spring
One of the deepest tones.
Princess Irene
orange with pale purple flames
14”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
mid spring
Fragrant
Rosalie
two-toned lavender pink
20”-22”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
mid spring
Dark purple stems.
Sweet Love
soft pink petals with deep rose flames & pale pink edges
20”-22”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
mid spring
New variety.
VIRIDIFLORA
Deidre
true green petals and greenish
white edge
18”-20”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
early spring
New variety
Greenland
soft to rich pink brushed with
yellow and green
18”-20”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
early spring
New variety. Good cut flower.
Nightrider
blue-purple blooms with grass
green flames
18”-20”
6” deep/ 4”-6” apart
early spring
New variety. Good cut flower.
Atila
Calgary
Francoise
Negrita
Rosalie
Deidre
Greenland
Nightrider
Other:
Variety
Colour
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Bloom Time
Features
ALLIUM
A.christophii
lavender
14”
6”-8” deep/ 6” apart
early summer
Prefers sunny location. Globes of
star-shaped flower
A. giganteum
purple-blue
48”
6”-8” deep/ 6” apart
early summer
Large globes.
A. ‘Globemaster
purple
36”
6”-8” deep/ 6” apart
early summer
Ten inch flower heads.
A. moly
yellow
11”
6”-8” deep/ 6” apart
early summer
Multiplies quickly.
A. ‘Mount Everest’
white
48”
6”-8” deep/ 6” apart
early summer
Broad leaves; fluffy white heads
A. ‘Purple Sensation’
purple
36”
6”-8” deep/ 6” apart
early summer
Very reliable perennial.
A. sphaerocephalon
purple-red
25”
6”-8” deep/ 6” apart
early summer
Available in single & double forms.
FRITILLARIA
Fritillaria meleagris ‘Checkered Lily’
cream, purple and brown
8”
4” deep/ 4” apart
mid spring
Delicate bell-shaped checkered flowers.
Fritillaria Imperialis
red or yellow
36”
6”-8” deep/ 8” apart
late spring
Bulb gives off skunk like fragrance which may repel squirrels.
GLORY OF THE SNOW
Chinodoxa
blue or pink with white centers
5”-8”
3”-4” deep/ 2”-4”
apart
early spring
Tall plants with narrow grass like
leaves and nodding flowers.
GRAPE HYACINTH
ChMuscari
white, blue, violet
4”-6”
2”-3” deep/ 4” apart
mid spring
Double and single varieties available. Naturalize well.
A.christophii
A. Mount Everest
A. sphaerocephalon
A. Purple Sensation
Fritillaria
Checkered Lily
Fritillaria Imperialis
Chinodoxa
Variety
Colour
Height
Planting Depth/ Spacing
Bloom Time
Features
HYACINTH
Hyacinthus orientalis
white, pink, purple, blue, yellow, apricot
8”-12”
6” deep/ 6” apart
mid spring
Suitable for forcing; many varieties of pre-cooled bulbs available.
IRIS - DWARF
Iris spp.
yellow, light blue, blue
6”
2”-3” deep/ 4” apart
early spring
Flowers appear before leaves in spring. Good for forcing or rock garden.
SNOWDROPS
Galanthus spp.
white
4”
3” deep/ 2”-3” apart
early spring
Available in single & double forms. Solitary, nodding dainty white blooms.
SIBERIAN SQUILL
Scilla siberica
deep blue
5”
4” deep/ 3” apart
early spring
Multiplies readily.
STRIPED SQUILL
Puschkina libanotica
blue with dark blue stripe
5”
4” deep/ 3” apart
early spring
Hardy, long-lived bulb. Good companion for tulips.
STAR OF BETHLEHEM
Ornithogallum spp
white
7”
4” deep/ 6” apart
late spring
Large clusters of star-shaped blooms. Plant under trees or shrubs.
WINTER ACONITE
Eranthis hyemalis
yellow
3”
4” deep/ 6” apart
early spring
Tuberous plants with rounded leaves. Solitary, bright yellow flowers.
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Bulbs bring us long-lasting and spectacular flowers that reward the patient. You have to plant your bulb several months before you expect anything resembling a bloom but it is well worth the wait.
Bulbs need to be planted in a particular season because they spend a long time resting underground. For early spring flowering bulbs like jonquils, tulips, and daffodils, you plant in the fall. For late spring and summer (flowers like dahlias) plant the bulbs in early spring, once the danger of frost has passed. Fall-flowering bulbs like crocus go into the soil in late spring as well. Garden stores and online suppliers generally sell the bulbs during the appropriate planting season.
Some spring bulbs, like tulips, require a chilling period in order to bloom. If you live in a climate that does not have a cold winter, you have two choices. Some online suppliers will provide (for a small fee) bulbs that arrive pre-chilled. Plant them right away! Otherwise keep the bulbs in the refrigerator in an uncrowded brown paper bag for six weeks prior to planting them in the spring.
A container makes an excellent home for bulbs. More often than not, you can plant them in the spring, enjoy their blooms later in the season, and dig them up in the fall to reuse the following year saving some cash in the process. Depending on where you live, you may be able to leave the bulbs in the containers all year long.
If you live in a very harsh winter climate, spring bulbs will often freeze over the winter. If you can, put the planted container in an unheated indoor spot, like a garage, over the winter. If you don’t have that sort of space, use a container that is at least 14 inches across and wrap it in burlap for the winter.
When it comes to planning your container display first decide whether you want your flowers to bloom all at once (momentary) or at various times throughout the season (periodic). To create a luscious momentary arrangement choose flowers that bloom at roughly the same time and have similar light and water requirements (see following reference charts). Mixing flowers of different colors, shapes, and heights usually makes for the most stunning display.
A periodic bulb assortment blooms at different times of the season. It works best to combine bulbs that are not planted very deeply, like grape hyacinth, with bulbs that are planted at a greater depth, like dahlias. It is important to plant bulbs with similar sun and water requirements.
When it comes to choosing bulbs don’t let the packaging sway your selection. Look for bulbs that are firm and heavy, with no soft spots or mildew. When you plant your bulbs, loosen the soil to the depth of about 5 to 7 inches. Add a little bone meal, available at a garden store, to provide nutrients. Plant the bulbs according to the instructions, but generally you will need a hole that is about three times as deep as the height of the bulb. Plant it with the narrow end up—that’s where the stalk emerges. Water the container thoroughly after the bulbs are planted.
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Nothing brings life to a home like a beautiful plant. Resting the eye on a bit of nature if you live in the city, or on something green in the midst of snowy winter, lifts the spirits. Plants help clean the air and provide oxygen, too.
Houseplant care is similar to that for outdoor plants. Start by learning and providing your plant with the essentials it requires to flourish. In a container, it is best to allow the soil to dry as much as the plant will tolerate before watering again to ensure plants are not left standing in pools of water. Because the indoor environment is more sheltered, you will find that houseplants do not need to be watered as frequently as plants which are grown in containers outside. Overwatering is one of the most common mistakes commited by novice gardeners.
Decide where you plan to put your container before you choose your plant. The amount and type of light that falls on the area will determine the best plant for the spot. Some plants need bright, direct light and others need only low, filtered sunlight. Use the list on the following pages as a guide in choosing plants.
Fertilize houseplants with a good, all-around, water-soluble fertilizer on planting. Look for an N:P:K ratio of 20-20-20 (or 15-30-15 for flowering plants). Never fertilize dry soil. Always water the plant and then add the fertilizer. Fertilizer sticks and slow-release fertilizer granules also work very well with houseplants.
Favourite Standing House Plants:
Names
Light
Water
Flowers/Foliage
Features/culture
CHINESE EVERGREEN Aglaonema commutatum
Medium to low light
Allow soil surface to dry out before watering.
Lance- shaped leaves with many variegations
Several varieties including Silver Queen. Easy to grow; for home or office.
MONEY TREE Pachira
Bright indirect sunlight
Allow soil to dry out moderatly before watering.
Elongated leaves.5 per stem.
5 leaves symbolize 5 elements of Feng shui.
PINE-NORFOLK ISLAND Araucaria excelsa
Bright indirect sunlight
Keep soil uniformly moist.
Soft Needles
Coniferous evergreen with tiered branches. Can be decorated as indoor Christmas tree.
PEPEROMIA Peperomia species
Bright indirect sunlight
Allow soil to dry out thoroughly before watering.
Round fleshy leaves.
Several species are semi-succulent such as watermelon, emerald ripple, pepper face.
DRACAENA Dracaena species
Medium sunlight
Allow soil surface to dry out before watering.
Green or striped, lance-shaped leaves.
Janet Craig/warnecki/corn cane/marginata. Accent plants used for interior landscapes.
Florists’ mums are long-lived blooms. Popular gift plant for moms!
ORCHIDS: Phalaenopsis, etc. Epiphytic & Terrestrial
Bright filtered sunlight
Allow potting media to dry before watering. Needs extra humidity.
Various colors of exquisite flowers.
Keep away from heat registers. Care & culture depends on variety. Moth orchid is the easiest to bloom. See our Orchid page for more info.
POINSETTIA Euphorbia pulcherrima
Bright indirect sunlight
Allow soil surface to dry before watering.
Colorful bracts in red, pink, or white.
Traditional Xmas plant. Group together as a show piece. Adds a festive touch to any decor. See our Chrismas section of the guide for information on reblooming.
PRIMROSE-CAPE Streptocarpus species
Bright filtered sunlight
Allow soil surface to
Purple, pink or white tubular flowers.
Same family as African Violet. Fertilize for long-lived blossoms.
ROSE, MINIATURE Rosa chinensis
Bright direct sunlight
Keep soil evenly moist. Likes extra humidity
Mini fragrant flowers. Available in various colors.
Great gift for loved ones! Remove spent flowers for reblooming.
Favourite Hanging House Plants:
Names
Light
Water
Flowers/Foliage
Fearures/culture
FIG-CREEPING Ficus pumila
Medium sunlight
Keep soil uniformly moist.
Heart-shaped, small leaves.
Self-clinging, climbing or hanging plant. Suitable for use as a ground cover or on pole.
GLORY BOWER Clerodendron thompsonae
Bright filtered sunlight
Keep soil uniformly moist.
White sepals and red petals. Ovate leaves.
Tall twining shrub with trailing stems. Requires cool, dry, winter rest period. Also called bleeding heart vine!
CLERODENDRON THOMPSONAE Hypocyrta glabra
Bright indirect sunlight
Keep soil uniformly moist.
Orange pouch flowers. Glossy green leaves.
Blooms resemble goldfish! Trailing vine is outstanding flowering hanger.
IVY-ENGLISH Hedera helix
Bright indirect sunlight
Allow soil surface to dry out before watering.
Green or variegated lobed leaves
Trailing, climbing vine with several varieties. Good hanging plant for bright location.
ARROWHEAD VINE Syngonium podophyllum
Bright filtered sunlight
Allow soil surface to dry out before watering.
Arrow-shaped, variegated leaves.
Easy to grow hanging houseplant. Suitable for lower light area.
BURRO’S TAIL Sedum morganianum
Bright direct sunlight
Allow soil to dry out before watering.
Fleshy succulent leaves.
Hanging leaves look like donkey tail. Withstands low humidity of houses.
IVY-SWEDISH Plectrantus australis
Bright indirect sunlight
Keep soil uniformly moist.
Aromatic, square stems. Small oval leaves.
Trailing, fast growing, hanging houseplant. Easy to prune & propagate.
LIPSTICK PLANT Aeschynanthus species
Bright direct sunlight
Keep soil uniformly moist.
Red tube-like flowers. Elliptic leaves.
Trailing stems suitable in a hanging basket. Blossoms resemble lipstick tubes!
FiG-Creeping
Glory Bower
Clerodendron thompsonae
Ivy-English
Arrowhead Vine
Burro’s Tail
Ivy-Swedish
Lipstick Plant
Hanging House Plants:
Names
Light
Water
Flowers/Foliage
Fearures/culture
ARROWHEAD VINE Syngonium podophyllum
Bright filtered sunlight
Allow soil surface to dry out before watering.
Arrow-shaped, variegated leaves.
Easy to grow hanging houseplant. Suitable for lower light area.
BABY’S TEARS Soleirolia soleirolii
Bright indirect sunlight
Keep soil uniformly moist. Extra humidity is required.
Tear-sized, tiny round leaves.
Creeping ground cover with trailing stems. Great for gound cover in terrarium or hanger.
BURRO’S TAIL Sedum morganianum
Bright direct sunlight
Allow soil to dry out before watering.
Fleshy succulent leaves.
Hanging leaves look like donkey tail. Withstands low humidity of houses.
FERNS Nephrolepis, Adiantum
Bright filtered sunlight
Keep soil uniformly moist. Extra humidity is required.
Distinctive, dissected, delicate, lacy fronds.
Suitable for hanging basket or plant stand. Includes traditional Boston and unique staghorn.
FIG-CREEPING Ficus pumila
Medium sunlight
Keep soil uniformly moist.
Heart-shaped, small leaves.
Self-clinging, climbing or hanging plant. Suitable for use as a ground cover or on pole.
IVY-ENGLISH Hedera helix
Bright indirect sunlight
Allow soil surface to dry out before watering.
Green or variegated lobed leaves.
Trailing, climbing vine with several varieties. Good hanging plant for bright location.
IVY-GRAPE Cissus rhombifolia
Bright indirect sunlight
Allow soil surface to dry out before watering.
Compound leaves with 3 toothed leaflets.
Fast growing, climbing, trailing vine. Member of the true grape vine family.
IVY-KANGAROO Cissus antarct
Bright indirect sunlight
Allow soil surface to dry out before watering.
Toothed ovate, glossy leaves.
Member of the grape ivy family.
IVY-SWEDISH Plectrantus australis
Bright indirect sunlight
Keep soil uniformly moist.
Aromatic, square stems. Small oval leaves.
Trailing, fast growing, hanging houseplant. Easy to prune & propagate.
LIPSTICK Aeschynanthus species
Bright direct sunlight
Keep soil uniformly moist.
Red tube-like flowers. Elliptic leaves.
Trailing stems suitable in a hanging basket. Blossoms resemble lipstick tubes!
NERVE Fittonia verschaffeltii
Medium sunlight
Keep soil uniformly moist. Extra humidity is required.
Small oval, veined leaves.
Creeping ground cover plant. Variegated veins look like nerves.
POTHOS-GOLDEN Scindapsus aureus
Medium sunlight
Allow soil surface to dry out before watering.
Heart-shaped, variegated leaves.
Easy to grow climbing or hanging plant. Also called devil’s ivy. Also marble queen.
PRAYER Maranta leuconeura
Medium sunlight
Keep soil uniformly moist. Extra humidity is required.
Ornate oblong leaves.
Suitable plant for trellis or hanger. Leaves bend up at night to pray!
SPIDER Chlorophytum comosum
Medium sunlight
Avoid getting foliage wet.
Arching, variegated, linear leaves.
Small spider-shaped, hanging plantlets. Colorful foliage that also cleans the air.
STRING OF PEARLS Senecio rowleyanus
Bright direct sunlight
Allow soil t dry out ore watering.
Pea-shaped, succulent leaves.
Pearly unique, dangling leaves on a string. Withstands low humidity of houses.
WAX PLANT Hoya carnosa
Bright direct sunlight
Allow soil to dry out before watering.
Waxy scented flowers. Fleshy leaves.
Semi-succulent, climbing foliage. Prefers to be root bound.
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Perennials are plants that die back to their roots in winter and grow back again in the spring, year after year. Growing perennials in containers is not difficult. There are lots of beautiful perennials to choose from. Many perennials bloom for a long time. Another advantage of perennials is that they save you money over time because you don’t have to buy new plants every year.
Care of perennials is similar to that of other plants. One difference is that if growth becomes less vigorous after a few years. When your plant starts looking weaker, it needs to be divided. This means that when the plant is dormant (not in the active growing season) it should be dug up to refresh the root ball. The procedure is simple. You dig up the root ball and cut or pull apart the clump of roots. Keep the younger, healthier-looking parts of the roots and replant them in the soil. Your perennial may appear a little weaker right after division, but will bounce back with a burst of vigor.
Perennials can do very well in container gardens. If you live in a very cold climate, the delicate perennial root system can freeze over the winter. Always choose plants that are suitable for your growing zone and use large containers. The larger the container, the better chance the plant will have to survive the cold. Perennials that are more likely to survive the winter frost in containers include salvia, campanula, phlox, scabiosa, and daylilies. If you live in a warm climate, planting the perennial in the fall gives it a good chance to develop a strong root system over the winter for spring growth.
Perennials – Shade & Part Sun – Favourites:
Names
Height/ Spread
Light
Zone
Leaf Color
Flower Color
Bloom Time
Soil Moisture
Features/Uses
Achillea ptarmica YARROW-SNEEZEWORT
18/24 in. 45/60 cm
2
green
white
June to Sept.
well-drained
Similar cut flowers to those of Baby’s Breath. Inclined to spread so good for massing.
Aster alpinus ASTER-ALPINE
12/12 in. 30/30 cm
2
green
pink purple white
May to June
well-drained
Short plants display star-shaped daisies. Ideal for front of border or rockery.
Bergenia cordifolia BERGENIA-HEARTLEAF
18/24 in. 45/60 cm
2
green
pink white
June to July
moist soil
Large glossy green leaves turn bronze in fall. Clusters of flowers rise above foliage in spring.
Echinacea purpurea CONEFLOWER
48/24 in 120/60 cm
3
green
purple white
July to Sept.
well-drained
Long-lasting daisies droop from brown cone.
Heuchera hybrid CORAL BELLS-SNOW STORM
18/12 in. 45/30 cm
3
white/ green
cerise pink
June to July
moist, well-drained
Very bright, ruffled leaves
Myosotis sylvatica FORGET-ME-NOT-GARDEN
8/8 in 20/20 cm
3
green
true blue pink
May to June
moist soil
Showy spring display by self seeding biennial. Used as under-planting with spring bulbs.
Salvia nemerosa ‘May Night’ SALVIA-MAY NIGHT
24/24 in. 60/60 cm
3
gray-green
indigo violet
May to July
well-drained
Perennial Plant of the Year 1997. Aromatic leaves and spike-like flflowers.
Large, long blooming, daisy like flowers. Strong sturdy stems are good for cutting.
Helianthemum nummularium ROCK OR SUN ROSE
12/24 in. 30/60 cm
4
gray-green
various
June to Sept.
well-drained
Available in single or double flowering forms. Good for edging and rockery. Mulch in winter.
Hesperis matronalis SWEET ROCKET
36/12 in. 90/30 cm
2
green
purple
June to July
well-drained
Fragrant flowers resemble Summer Phlox. Old-fashioned garden plant for the border
Hemerocallis x hybrida DAYLILY
36/24 in. 90/60 cm
2
green
various
July to Aug.
well-drained
Plants form sturdy clumps of grassy foliage. Lily shaped flowers bloom in long succession.
Hemerocalis var. DAYLILLY-HAPPY RETURNS
16/16 in. 40/40 cm
2
green
canary yellow
June to Sept.
well-drained
Prolific repeat bloomer. Flowers have slight fragrance
Hemerocallis ‘Stella D’Oro’ DAYLILY-STELLA D’ORO
18/18 in. 45/45 cm
2
green
yellow
June to Sept.
well-drained
Popular compact dwarf. Longer blooming period.
Heuchera hybrid CORAL BELLS-CHOCOLATE RUFFLES
24/18 in. 60/45 cm
3
dark brown
white
June to July
moist, well-drained
Leaves large and ruffled. Burgundy underneath
Heuchera hybrid CORAL BELLS-NORTHERN FIRE
18/12 in. 45/30 cm
2
green
scarlet red
June to July
moist, well-drained
Bred in Morden Manitoba. Flowers high over low foliage.
Heuchera hybrid CORAL BELLS-PALACE PURPLE
18/18 in. 45/45 cm
3
deep purple
white
June to July
moist, well-drained
Leaves fade to bronze in Summer. Plants vary from seed.
Heuchera hybrid CORAL BELLS-SNOW STORM
18/12 in. 45/30 cm
3
white/ green
cerise pink
June to July
moist, well-drained
Very bright, ruffled leaves
Iberis sempervirens IBERIS-CANDY TUFT
10/36 in. 25/90 cm
3
green
white
May to June
well-drained
Evergreen foliage forms compact ground cover. Good for rock gardens or front of border.
Iris setosa IRIS-ARCTIC
8/12 in. 20/30 cm
2
green
lavender
May to June
well-drained
Compact clump with narrow leaves. Hardy species for edging border.
Iris pumila IRIS-DWARF BEARDED
8/12 in. 20/30 cm
2
green
purple pink yellow white
May to June
well-drained
Old-fashioned favorite flower in showy display. Available in separate colors & named va-rieties. Also varieties available as bare root rhizome in the bulb department in August.
Names
Height/ Spread
Light
Zone
Leaf Color
Flower Color
Bloom Time
Soil Moisture
Features/Uses
Iris germanica IRIS-GERMAN BEARDED
30/18 in. 75/45 cm
3
green
purple pink yellow bronze June
May to June
well-drained
Old-fashioned favorite flower in showy display. Available in separate colors & named varieties. Also varieties available as bare root rhizome in the bulb department in August.
Iris ensata IRIS-JAPANESE
48/18 in 120/45 cm
4
green
various
June to July
moist soil
Flowers appear on top of tall grassy clumps. Suitable waterside plant.
Iris sibirica IRIS-SIBERIAN
36/24 in. 90/60 cm
2
green
purple white
May to June
well-drained
Clumps of grassy leaves look good all summer. Delicate looking flowers for cutting.
Iris pallida IRIS-SWEET
24/12 in. 60/30 cm
3
gold-green
lavender
June to July
well-drained
Grown for attractive striped foliage. Edging border plant.
Iris pseudacorus IRIS-YELLOW FLAG
48/24 in. 120/60 cm
2
green white silver
yellow
May to June
moist soil
Attractive at the waterside. Similar to blue flag Iris.
Lamium maculatum LAMIUM-DEAD NETTLE
12/12 in. 30/30 cm
2
green
pink white
May to Spet.
well-drained
Attractive ground cover with variegated foliage.
Lathyrus latifolius PEA-SWEET-PERENNIAL
8/1 ft. 240/30 cm
3
gray
pink purple
June to Sept
well-drained
Native wildflower used as dried everlasting. Good fresh cut flower.
Lavandula angustifolia LAVENDER-MUNSTEAD
16/24 in. 40/60 cm
4
gray
pink purple
June to Aug.
well-drained
Fragrant flower spikes & foliage. Suitable for the herb garden.
Leontopodium alpinum EDELWEISS
6/10 in. 15/25 cm
3
green
white
June to July
well-drained
Well known rockery plant from Swiss alps. Woolly flowers used for dried arrangements.
Leucanthemum X superbum SHASTA DAISY-’ALASKA
24/18 in. 60/45 cm
3
green
white
June to Sept.
well-drained
Several cultivars available; not The Ox-eye Daisy. White Daisies with yellow centers good to cut.
Spreading mat of silver woolly leaves. Drought tolerant edging plant or ground cover.
Tanacetum coccineum PAINTED DAISY/PYRETHRUM
30/18 in. 75/45 cm
2
green
rose pink
June to July
well-drained
Old-fashioned cut flower with ferny foliage. Deadhead regularly to increase flowering.
Thalictrum aquilegifoLIUM MEADOW RUE
36/24 in. 90/60 cm
3
green
mauve white
May to June
moist soil
Cut leaves closely resemble Columbine. Fluffy flower sprays are used for cutting.
Thalictrum delavayi MEADOW RUE-DOUBLE
60/24 in. 150/60 cm
3
green
purple
June to Aug
moist soil
Airy sprays of double flowers & lacy foliage. Tall background plant for cutting.
Thymus x citriodorus Thymus praecox Thymus pseudolanuginosus Thymus serpyllum THYMUS-THYME
6/12 in. 15/30 cm
3
gold silver green gray green
red lavender white pink purple
June to July
well-drained
Aromatic, excellent edging or rockery plants. It has lemon scented leaves. Creeping thyme is a good ground cover. Woolly thyme forms a vigorous mat. Mother-of-thyme is a much loved carpeter.
Tradescantia X andersoniana SPIDERWORT
24/24 in. 60/60 cm
3
green
various
June to Aug
moist soil
Grassy foliage with showy triangular flowers. Plant in diagonal drifts in the border.
Verbascum phoeniceum MULLEIN-PURPLE
48/12 in. 120/30 cm
4
silver
mixed
June to Aug
well-drained
Unique daisy flowers with red on the back. Suitable for grouping in the border.
Veronica allioni VERONICA-ALPINE
6/12 in. 15/30 cm
2
green
blue-violet
June to Aug
well-drained
Attractive compact flower spikes. Excellent edging or alpine rockery plant.
Veronica repens VERONICA-CREEPING
2/12 in. 5/30 cm
2
gray-green
white
May to June
well-drained
Low creeping carpet with spring flowers. Good ground cover or rock garden plant.
Veronica spicata VERONICA-SPIKE SPEED-WELL
24/12 in. 60/30 cm
2
green
blue pink
June to Aug
well-drained
Border plant with long-lasting flower spikes. Red Fox is good for cut flowers.
Veronica spicata incana VERONICA-WOOLLY
18/18 in. 45/45 cm
2
silver
blue violet
June to July
well-drained
Silver woolly foliage with flower spikes. Excellent for edging or mass planting in border.
Veronica ‘Sunny Border Blue’ VERONICA-SUN. BORDER BLUE
24/12 in. 60/30 cm
3
green
blue
June to Sept.
well-drained
1993 Perennial Plant of the Year. Long blooming spikes for cut flowers.
Yucca glauca YUCCA
24/18 in. 60/45 cm
3
green
white
July
well-drained
Succulent, evergreen, narrow, stiff leaves. Native. Extremely drought tolerant in hot, dry, sun area.
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Annual flowers are the bright sparks of the garden as their colorful blossoms greet us at the door or on the patio. Containers are the perfect way to grow these living bouquets!
Annuals do not need any special care and can be planted as detailed in chapters 1-3 of this guide. Many are easy to grow from seed, meaning that you can experiment with a variety of different types of flowers very economically, and even save your own seed.
Annuals are often purchased as pre-planted flowering pots. Countless varieties are available at hardware stores, supermarkets, and garden centers. These plants can add instant color to a container garden, and are an excellent way to quickly replace an under-performing plant in an otherwise stunning display. However, because they have usually begun flowering well before we buy them, they do not bloom for as long as plants grown from seed nor are they as hardy.
In order to extend the life of your flower displays, keep the spent flowers trimmed off. This is called “deadheading.” Removing the flowers before they can set seed encourages the plant to produce even more flowers.
Annual flowers make excellent displays on their own, or can be combined with herbs and vegetables for a stunning and edible display! Some flowers, like nasturtiums and pansies, are also edible and make a fantastic addition to summer salads.
Because annuals live only one season, you can choose a new look for your container each year. When you design your annual container, keep in mind these design principles:
1. Consider foliage plants with interesting shapes, colors, or textures as the “background” of your composition.
2. Keep the color wheel in mind: If you want the colors to pop, choose colors from opposite sides of the wheel—like purple and yellow. If you want a more soothing look, choose analogous colors—those that are next to each other—like shades of pink and pastel oranges.
3. Shapes of flowers add interest to the arrangement. Use a variety for best results.
4. If plants get leggy or overgrow the container, trim them back. When they are truly spent, did them up gently and replace them.
5. Plant more flowers than you would normally plant in a garden. You want to keep the bloom dramatic.
Good choices for containers in sunny spots are marigolds, geraniums, sunflowers and petunias. In part-shade, alyssum, lobelia, nemesia and nicotiana all bloom well. In very shady areas, try impatiens, pansies and violas.
Perennial foliage plants like yucca and lamb’s ear, or attractive herbs like lavender, mint and thyme, make excellent foliage plants as the “background” to a composition.
Hanging Garden Flowers:
Names
Sun, Part-Shade , Shade
Feature
Flower Color
BACOPA Satura cordata
Shade tolerant annual
white
BEGONIA,Tuberous Begonia tuberhybrida shade
Showy, large, double flowers; Illumination & Non-Stop series
pink, red, orange
CALIBRACHOA (Million bells)
Small pastel colored petunia-like blooms likes lots of water and food or white
blue, pink
COLEUS Coleus hybridus
Combo. of multi-colored leaves; Minter Rainbow cultivar
colored foliage
FUCHSIA Fuchsia hybrida
Drooping bicolored flowers; bring woody shrub indoors in fall
red, white & purple
GERANIUM, IVY Pelargonium peltatum
Hanging or climbing stems, durable plant with divided leaves
red, pink or white
IMPATIENS Garden Balsam
Popular annual hangers; Accent and Rosebud series
wide range
SCAEVOLA Scaevola aemula
Creeping herbaceous perennial; Blue Wonder variety
blue
SUPERTUNIAS Petunia hybrida
Abundant pastel flowers; lots of water and fertilizer each day!!!
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Plant from seed. Bush beans produce only one crop per season. Pole beans are more productive, but require space for a 6-8 foot pole to climb.
Carrots:
Plant generously with seed, then thin out the seedlings. Choose a variety that fits the depth of your container—there are carrots of various lengths.
Cucumbers:
Bush varieties take up less space than the trailing type, which will grow over your container and produce cucumbers all over your patio.
Eggplants and Peppers:
Eggplants are beautiful plants that are ornamental as well as delicious. Be sure to put them where you can see them! Peppers are also attractive as they grow and come in all varieties from sweet to inferno.
Squash:
There are so many types of squash! Summer squash, such as zucchini, are more productive than winter squash (both grow in summer).
Tomatoes:
The queen of the garden! If you choose a determinate variety of tomato (one that grows only 2-3 feet and produces its crop all at once), then put a small wire cage or bamboo stakes around the plant at the time of planting. If you choose an indeterminate variety (rangy plants that produce all season), then use a 5 foot cage. Sweet cherry tomatoes are particularly successful in containers and usually have a long productive season.
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Nothing beats a delicious home-grown tomato, or a zucchini, or some exotic fresh peppers snipped only moments before lunch. This can all be yours if you grow vegetables in your container garden. Growing vegetables in containers makes a lot of sense. The growing medium in containers warms up faster in spring, giving you a head start on planting. Containers also protect your plants from marauding pests.
Rule number one: choose to plant vegetables that your family actually likes! There is no point in dedicating precious space in the garden to a vegetable unless you enjoy cultivating, eating, and sharing it.
You will need a spot with six good hours of sunlight. Fill your container with good soil and mix in an organic fertilizer or compost. Organic fertilizer can be supplemented with a boost of fish emulsion every few weeks. Don’t let the soil dry out completely because water is the key to vegetable growth. Water at the soil level so that water droplets don’t stay on the leaves and cause them to rot.
Vegetables can be started either from seed or small plants. Some vegetables do better with one or the other. Once your plants begin to produce vegetables, keep them harvested! Picking the vegetables will encourage the plant to develop more vegetables!
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One of the benefits of growing an herb garden is that you can harvest and dry your own herbs. In order to maximize the volatile oils that give herbs their flavor, harvest them when the day is cool and the oils are concentrated. Leafy herbs like basil and thyme should be harvested just before they bloom. Once they bloom, herbs often become bitter. Flowering herbs like chamomile should be collected when the flowers are in full bloom.
Clip leafy herbs—scissors work well—halfway down the stem so you can get a second growth if your growing season allows it. For flowering herbs, cut the stalk just below the bloom. Rinse the herbs with cool water and gently shake them to remove the excess.
Tie the herbs into small bundles, binding the stems with string. Don’t make these bundles too dense, as good air circulation is necessary to dry the herbs and prevent mold. Hang the bundles upside down so the oils can drain down into the leaves. Keep them indoors in a cool, dark place, as sunlight will discolor the herbs and dissipate the oil.
Once dry, strip the leaves off the stems and store them in metal, ceramic, or colored glass containers. Then settle down with a cup of your own chamomile tea!
To save herb seeds, allow the herb to flower and wait for the seeds to fill out and begin to dry before picking the seed head. Hang them to dry well before storing.
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Having your own supply of fresh herbs is great. To step outside, snip a few leaves and toss them into your flavorful soup is very satisfying, as well as delicious. A container garden, is useful, compact, beautiful, and can encompass an assortment of herbs. Even a small container can hold a variety of small herb plants: thyme, oregano, rosemary, basil. Just the drifting scent as you walk past your garden will make you feel like you are basking in the Mediterranean sun.
Herbs are tough little plants. They are hardy, easy to grow, and are often perennial—plants that come back year after year. Herbs are often drought tolerant, but be sure to keep them well-watered until they are established. They are readily available at grocery, home, as well as, garden stores. They are incredibly cost effective to grow. An entire plant costs the same price as a single bundle of fresh-picked herbs! Look for plants that are compact and full, with good color.
Herbs can also be grown from seed and usually sprout very quickly. Since you are generally using the leaves, the herbs become useful soon after planting as opposed to vegetables. Just follow the planting directions on the back of the packet and the general instructions in this book. This is a very economical way to grow herbs and gives you the widest selection.
Favourite Herbs:
Names
Annual, Biennial, Perennial
Culinary Uses
Sun, Part Shade, Shade
Indoor/ Outdoor seed date
Days from seed to harvest
Seed / Trans-plant
BASIL Ocimum basilicum
Annual
Pungent flavor for tomato sauces; 6 varieties including Sweet, Purple and Lemon types
May 15-30 n/a
80-85
Seed, Trans
BAY/LAUREL Laurus officinalis
Tree
Bay leaves flavour soup and stew; also available as indoor tropical plant
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Here’s something fun to do: if you have grown legumes— like pole beans or sweet peas—you can save the seeds and plant them next year! Just cut off the pods and store them somewhere cool and dry until they dry out. Then, pop them open and shake out the seeds (the beans or peas). Keep these in a cool, dry location for the winter, then plant them next spring to enjoy free vegetables!
There are plenty of vegetables and flowers with seeds that you can save to plant the next year. Peas, beans, lettuce, parsley, peppers, marigolds, calendula, cosmos, dill and fennel have seeds that are usually true to type and easy to save. When choosing seeds to save, ensure that you select plants that have been healthy and productive – you don’t want to save the seeds of a weak plant that has not thrived, after all. Dry the seeds very well before storing them, and use them the next year, as some seeds have a very short shelf-life.
The seeds of tomatoes, cucumbers and some melons, need to be cleaned of all pulp by soaking them in water for a few days before washing and drying them for use the next year. They are also more complicated to save because plants can cross pollinate if you or your neighbor grow more than one variety of tomato or melon, for example. A cross-pollinated seed might develop into a new, super-tasty variety of melon, but it might also be a dud, so sometimes it is better to buy seeds if you cannot be sure exactly what you are putting time and effort into growing.
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If you live in a cold climate, sometimes starting plants indoors is a good option, particularly for vegetables like tomatoes. You should start your indoor plants in a sterile, soil-free growing medium with excellent water retention (see Growing Mediums).
Indoor planting can be a little tricky. Without the right amount of light, plants become “leggy” – long and thin – which weakens them for life. Try growing them on a sunny window-sill or moving them outside as soon as they have sprouted if temperatures in your area are mild. Indoor plants are also more susceptible to “damping off,” a fungal infection that causes young plants to droop. Still, it is worth the effort to get a jump on the growing season.
Once the plants are large enough and the temperature is warm enough to consider moving them outdoors, you should start the process of “hardening off.” This means that for about two weeks before transplanting outside, you take the seedlings outdoors and put them in the sun for an hour or so. Increase the length of time the plants spend outdoors until you are ready to transplant them.
When you transplant, be very gentle with the plants to prevent transplant shock. Start by water the seedlings and the container they will be transplanted into. Preserve as much of the soil surrounding the root ball as possible, and do not bury the plants deeper than they were originally. Handle the plants only by the leaves and not by the stem.
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There is something very satisfying about starting a plant from a seed. You choose a packet of seeds with an inviting picture on the front, take an unpromising looking bit of vegetable matter and bury it in soil, add water, and wait. Within days, usually, a tiny green shoot will just begin to peek out. It must be part of our ancient human nature to find this experience deeply fulfilling.
Planting your container garden from seed is something you might want to try. Seeds are much less expensive than plants—you get a handful of seeds in a packet for much less than the cost of one plant. You also have many more options for exotic or unusual plants when you choose seed. This is especially true if you are interested in the heirloom varieties of vegetables.
The planting process is fairly simple. You water the soil in the container and then plant the seed at the depth listed on the packet. A good rule of thumb is that the hole will be about three times the width of the seed. Usually this is not very deep, so you can just make a little hole with your fingertip, place the seed in the hole, and brush the soil over it gently. Small seeds can just be pressed into the soil. If the seeds are really tiny, the packet may suggest that you scatter the seed without making holes. When you have finished planting, water the seed in thoroughly (without disturbing the planting) and put the container in a warm place. Keep the soil moist.
It is best to plant more seeds than you want plants, because not all of the seeds will germinate. Under ideal circumstances, about 80% of seeds from a quality commercial seed grower will germinate and about 75% will produce plants. If you are planting heirloom or saved seeds, your germination rate will probably be much lower.
The timing of seed planting is determined by your climate. The seed packet will usually suggest the ideal month for your growing zone, or will list a minimum temperature at which the seeds should be planted.
If you are lucky enough to have a bird-filled garden, you may have to protect your investment from snacking birds. Birds will eat scattered seeds that are not hidden under soil. They often enjoy the fresh seedlings that grow like a miniature salad bar. There is special netting available at garden shops that will keep out the birds without harming them. You can easily stretch this over your container garden to keep your seeds safe.
Once the tiny plants have sprouted, you have the unkind task of thinning the seedlings. Sometimes this is hard to do when you have nurtured them from seed, but it must be done for the health of the garden.
You can fertilize your seedlings, but not until the second set of leaves appears. Once your plants get a little larger, you can pinch of the growing tip to encourage a fuller growth.
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Most commercial potting soils and soil-less mixtures are not very rich in nutrients. One way to give your plants a good start is to amend the commercial growing medium with compost, or other organic enrichments available at your garden store, in a ratio of three parts potting mixture to one part compost.
In a pot, you are responsible for providing all of the nutrients your plant needs to grow, so you will need to fertilize and add micro-nutrients on a regular basis. If you do not want to think about fertilizing, it is possible to add slow-release fertilizer pellets to the soil mix. Otherwise, a good quality water-soluble fertilizer should be used from time to time. Choose a “complete” fertilizer that provides the three basic nutrients needed by plants: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. By law, fertilizers list three numbers representing the percentage of each of these nutrients in the mixture; for instance, 20-10-20 would be 20% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 20% potassium. The rest of the fertilizer is filler.
Plants which do not have access to these basic nutrients will not thrive, and you cannot rely on standard potting soils or soil-less mediums to provide them. The main symptoms which may indicate a nutrient deficiency are listed on the next page. Choosing a complete fertilizer will address all of these weaknesses. Apply the fertilizer according to the directions on the package, paying special attention to whether the solution should go on the leaves (foliar fertilizer) or just into the soil. Apply fertilizer in small amounts, regularly, as large quantities of fertilizer have the potential to burn plants and are largely lost through run-off anyway.
Minor Nutrients
Minor Elements (Macro Nutrients)
Functional Uses In Plant
Deficiency Symptoms
IRON (FE)
Formation of chlorophyll
Interveinal chlorosis of younger leaves
MANGANESE (MN)
Helps in uptake of carbon dioxide which is used for photosynthesis.
Mottled interveinal chlorosis of leaves
BORON (B)
Development of shoot tips and leaf bud; formation and movement of sugars in plant
Tip growth die back and deformed buds
CHLORINE (CL)
Stimulates photosynthesis
Wilting but rare because present in water
COPPER (CU)
Formation of chlorophyll and converting sunlight into energy; also a fungicide
Leaf chlorosis and shoot tip growth die back
MOLYBDENUM (MO)
Helps production and use of nitrogen
Marginal and interveinal chlorosis of older leaves
ZINC (ZN)
Formation of growth hormones
Mottled leaf chlorosis, little leaves; Rosetting
Major Nutrients
Major Elements (Macro Nutrients)
Functional Uses In Plant
Deficiency Symptoms
NITROGEN (N)
Necessary for growth and development of green leaves and stems; component of most proteins
Chlorosis (yellowing) of older, lower leaves; stunting
PHOSPHORUS (P)
Promotes root growth and development; energy storage and transfer within plant
Purple like coloration; stunted root growth
POTASSIUM (K)
Improves cold hardiness, drought tolerance and disease resistance; promotes blooms
Poor flowering and fruit formation; brown leaf edges
SULPHUR (S)
Component of 3 proteins and 2B vitamins; flavor of onion, garlic, and mustard; a fungicide
Chlorosis of younger leaves; stunting
CALCIUM (CA)
Promotes cell division, strong cell walls, and sturdy structure
Collapse of cell walls and structural failure; curled leaf tips; stunting
MAGNESIUM (MG)
Component of chlorophyll; essential for photosynthesis
Marginal (edges) and interveinal (between veins) chlorosis of older leaves
Plant Specific Nutrients
Plant Type
Nutrients Needed
Some Recommended Fertilizers
ANNUALS
BEDDING OUT PLANTS
High phosphorous to promote flowering.
Water soluble powder: Miracle Gro, Plant-Prod Flowering promote flowering. Liquid concentrate: Alaska MorBloom Granular: So-Green Rose and Flower, Smartcote Annual Food
HANGING BASKETS
Treat as a bedding out plant or use slow release fertilizer in the soil.
Water soluble/liquid concentrate: see ‘Bedding Out Plants’ Granular: Smartcote Hanging Basket Food Other: Jobe’s Plant Spikes
SEEDLINGS/ TRANSPLANTS
High phosphorous for root growth; a root stimulant is often required
Water soluble: Plant-Prod 10-52-10 Liquid concentrate: Plant Starter 5-15-5 with rooting stimulant Granular: Bone Meal, Root Grow
VEGETABLES
Less emphasis on nitrogen except for leafy vegetables.
Water soluble: Plant-Prod Tomato & Vegetable Liquid concentrate: Schultz Tomato Food Granular: So-Green Garden Food or Tomato Food, Vigioro Pink All Purpose
WATER PLANTS
Only trace elements are required.
Pond tablets in the water at the rate of one per month will supply required. the necessary nutrients.
PERENNIALS
BULBS (SPRING & SUMMER)
Relatively high phosphorous fertilizer to encourage roots & flowers.
Water soluble: Plant-Prod Flowering, Miracle Gro Granular: Bone Meal Note: Bloodmeal helps keep some squirrels from feeding on bulbs.
PERENNIALS
Need phosphorous for a strong root system and potassium for healthy growth.
Water soluble: Plant-Prod 10-52-10 Liquid concentrate: Plant Starter 5-15-5 with rooting stimulant Granular:Root Grow or Bone Meal, So-Green Super Phosphate
VINES
Require higher levels of phosphorous.
Water soluble: Miracle Gro, Plant-Prod Flowering Liquid concentrate: Alaska MorBloom Granular: So-Green Clematis & Vine, Bone Meal when planting
WINTERIZING
Never add nitrogen in fall as it encourages excess leafy growth.
A fertilizer without nitrogen will strengthen plants for better winter survival: Alaska MorBloom, So-Green Muriate of Potash
HOUSEPLANTS
FOLIAGE PLANTS
A balanced fertilizer
Water soluble: Schultz All Purpose, Plant-Prod All Purpose Liquid concentrate: Schultz All Purpose Slow release: Jobe’s Houseplant or Fern & Ivy Spikes
FLOWERING
A moderately high phosphorous level
Water soluble: Plant-Prod Flowering Liquid concentrate: Schultz All Purpose Slow release: Jobe’s Flowering Plant Spikes, Myke Indoor Plant
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Plants create their own fuel through the process of photosynthesis. Plant cells use light to convert carbon dioxide, chlorophyll, and water into the carbohydrates they need for growth. Therefore, all green plants need some amount of sunlight.
Most plants need six hours of full sun for maximum health. Before planting, keep an eye on your garden or deck to see where the sun falls and how much sun you get. That way, you can choose the spot that is the sunniest for the longest part of the day as the location of your container garden.
The angle of the sun changes throughout the seasons, casting shadows in spots that used to be sunny, or turning a shadowed corner into a blazing hot spot. One advantage of a container garden is that you can move the containers as the pattern of sun changes throughout the year.
Be aware that not all plants need full sun. Be sure to check the seed packet or the plant label for the plant’s sun requirements. Many shade-loving flowers are garden favorites, such as day lilies, hellebore, and foxglove. You can also grow delicate vegetables in a shaded garden. With three hours of sunlight each day, you can grow kale, bok choy, spinach and lettuce. Some salad-green mixes can be grown with as little as two hours of sun and kitchen herbs, such as chives, lemon balm, tarragon, chamomile and mint, can also thrive in partshade.
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Water is said to be a source of life, but too much or too little of it can be fatal. Providing your plants with just the right amount is essential. Container gardens dry out faster in the summer because they are more exposed to sun and wind. Using a large, non-porous container is a good place to start if you want to prevent excessive evaporation. Additionally, growing mediums are not created equal and some are better at retaining moisture than others, so using a growing mediums specifically formulated for container gardening is recommended.
It is best to water plants in the morning to provide them with all the essential components needed for photosynthesis and scorching temperatures. Watering should be avoided around noon and early afternoon because less water typically gets to the roots. Early evening is the next best time to water your garden but be sure to let the plant leaves dry before it gets dark to prevent fungal problems. Regardless of the time you water, it is always best to water plants at the soil line so that more water gets to the roots where it’s needed most. Water plants thoroughly, until water runs out of the bottom of the container. Avoid allowing the soil to dry out excessively between waterings.
Lastly, moisture loss can be minimized with the help of mulches, wetting agents and drip irrigation. You can also use shade to shelter plants from strong winds and direct sunlight. There are lots of options at your disposal, so chose the one best suited to your needs.
We are Garden365 and we love gardening. We hope sharing our tips and ideas will help you on your journey of becoming a better gardener.
*Please note, when you buy products through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. This helps to keep the website free for our readers. Thanks for your support!
